by Ella Mapes
Silent Engraving stunned the runway – but the story behind the collection weaves a deeper meaning.
London Fashion Week is always charged with undeniable, frantic energy. I expected a similar frenzy going backstage with Alisa Dudaj, who received a standing ovation in her 2024 New York Fashion Week collection, Alpine Whispers. Given Silent Engravings was her first London debut, there was much anticipation surrounding the young designer. Yet the pre-show environment had a smoothness to it; there was none of the storm expected from behind the scenes at fashion week.
Fashion Week is a swell of loud and bold collections, but intricately crafted pieces such as Dudaj’s crash into our attention with equal force. Silent Engravings etched a mark on all who attended. Speaking with Alisa Dudaj, it was clear that every element of the show had been meticulously planned by the Albanian designer, who made her New York debut merely one year ago.
Your NYFW was heavily inspired by Albanian folklore – what story can we expect behind this year’s LFW debut?
With Silent Engravings I was inspired by the wood engravings that I found around my house… I was touched by the time that they took to make. They were made from wood and hay, but were so intricate that they looked like a painting from afar. I wanted to make something that spoke to this, that took a long amount of time to make.
Your 2024 collection focused on monochromatic pieces with satins and silks – how will this collection be different?
This year I have used woven materials, but my materials continue to be fashioned from muted colours. I always want the eye to focus on the patterns and the details. Everything is done by hand. It takes a lot of time. That’s what makes it precious.
Why does heritage play such a key factor within your designs?
People are losing their identity in following trends. When you stick to your roots you find your authentic self and that’s how you craft identity. I want to bring my identity in curating clothes that are wearable and long lasting, not just in the quality of fabric, but in the weight of the detail.
What are the biggest hurdles you face when designing a collection?
Myself. You never know how other people will perceive your designs and it’s hard not to let that overwhelm you, but I’m trying to not overthink things.
If you could summarise this year’s collection in one word, what would it be?
Engraved.
