Filthy Fashion – The Dirtiest of Looks at The Barbican
The ‘clean girl’ era is dying, and if this brand-new exhibition is any indicator, it is already six feet under. Dirty Looks: Desire and Decay in Fashion- curated by Karen Van Godtsenhoven and Jon Astbury – launched at The Barbican last week, and it’s safe to say there has been no filthier portrayal of fashion. Each and every aspect rebels against the conventions of the industry, as it explores the grit beneath the surface.
The opening coincided with London Fashion Week, which has always been notorious for having a certain edge that other cities simply don’t possess. This exhibition is clear-cut proof that our city retrains that title, and remains the place to be as a designer should you aspire to defy the classical standards of the industry.
In addition to all the non-conformity, the exhibition is also an excellent celebration of British designers, both old and new. Westwood, McQueen and Galliano are running themes throughout the curation, with some truly iconic pieces being displayed – including a dress from McQueen’s AW95 collection that he famously titled The Highland Rape. All three designers were regarded as trailblazers in their prime, and clearly continue to influence the industry today, as reflected by all the new talent from the likes of Central Saint Martins that was on display alongside the greats.
There was a handful of personal highlights, including Robert Wun’s The White Moth and The Wine Stain Gown but as a general rule of thumb, the filthier the look, the greater my intrigue. In the second half of the exhibition, the work of bio-designer Alice Potts did not fail to catch the eye. At first glance, you saw a simple mid-20th century dress with a glittering bodice. It’s not until closer inspection that you learn that this sparkle has been generated using bodily fluids absorbed by the textile fibres, perhaps a slightly off putting thought at first, but the results were truly magical.
Overall, the entire atmosphere proved to be perfect, or perhaps imperfect would be the more appropriate term. There was no upbeat music or excessive dressing – just the brutality of the Barbican, empty rooms and the clothes, proving the intended point that fashion doesn’t have to be pretty and appealing, it has a far deeper meaning.
Dirty Looks: Desire and Decay in Fashion is available to view at the Barbican until Sunday 25th January 2025.
