It’s officially September and you know what that means! Over the past few days models were running from casting to casting, PR managers were juggling last minute details, designers sewing day and night, and fashion lovers eagerly waited in front of a screen. London Fashion Week had arrived! It is one of the most anticipated events of the year for everyone and for good reason as this year it celebrates its 40 year anniversary. Let’s take a deeper dive into some of the most unforgettable shows this season.
Harris Reed never fails to put on a show and this season might have been his most impressive one yet. By challenging himself to source vintage interiors fabrics for his designs and embracing creative constraints, you’d think his signature boldness would be toned down. On the contrary, he continues to shine through his bold designs putting on a truly memorable show despite foregoing the traditional catwalk and opting for a simple look book.
Chet Lo’s collection was a beautiful nod to mothers everywhere, drawing deeply on his journey with his own mother. Her inspiring life in a successful corporate career and her delicate guidance that supported him throughout his life pushed him to design mirroring his own personal growth. He wanted to offer something more elegant and sophisticated to reflect a new era of maturity for himself and the brand as well. We saw subtle panels, conservative necklines, and long flowing fabrics. The punk element of previous seasons still remained in the earthy color palette and the textured fabrics, but it was new this time, it was elevated.
Lela Rose brought a breath of fresh air to the runway, quite literally, by morphing the outdoors into luxury fashion. She turned a picnic blanket into a chic straight cut dress, a vase turned into another, and a flower bush was reimagined as a headpiece. Inspired by female figures in old paintings, she set out to offer women extravagant elegance so they can be overdressed for every occasion, and enjoy being so. Incorporating florals, pastels, and simple but structured silhouettes, the appreciation of femininity shone through this collection. Gowns made for women, inspired by women.
Following Standing Ground’s remarkable LVMH Savoir-Faire prize, which recognizes exceptional craftsmanship, Stewart allowed his skill to shine in his first solo runway collection. He opted for a simple but classy approach, creating elegant dresses with a technical precision. He used draping to create stunning silhouettes and play with the structure of each garment. The show plays on texture and fluidity to offer us something as beautiful as it is technically impressive.
Jayne Pierson invited us into a world where Celtic heritage and mythology come alive for her show, Annwn. The designer has worked with many celebrities over the years, most notably Rihanna and Alicia Keys, but this show drew the focus to her own life. A true celebration of her roots, weaving ancient stories into each design, she tells us a story through her collection. The designs are full of bold silhouettes and a dark palette dominate the collection, with metallic accents in the final looks hinting at royalty and grandeur within this gothic setting. Rich textures such as fringe, fur, and leather all play a huge part in adding depth to these daring looks.
The JW Anderson show presented 40 looks, all dresses – but any notion of simplicity was swiftly dismantled. Starting off strong with simple straight cut dresses featuring trompe l’oeil buttons and zippers, the collection quickly revealed itself to be a masterclass in creativity. From balloon skirts to what I can only describe as flying saucer skirts, the variety was pleasantly unexpected. Sequins, chunky knits, simple silhouettes and avant garde textures, just when you thought you’d seen it all, something entirely new came down the runway. To complement these revolutionary looks were understated accessories, a singular pair of leather boots and a versatile everyday bag in various colors; my personal favorite was the cobalt blue suede.
16 Arlington’s collection brought us straight to the beach club, then to a breezy terrace, and straight back to the club for evening drinks. Denim, suede and fur took centre stage for outerwear, while flowy fabrics and second skin mesh tops embodied the spirit of warmer days. Exaggerated collars and plunging necklines added to the drama, perfectly balancing the relaxed beach tones created by palm tree prints and sunshine yellow.
Finally, Simone Rocha, the icon of tulle, brought us another celebration of femininity through a range of dramatic designs that exemplify her boundless creativity. This time drawing on the trending style of ballet-core, presenting cardigans, tutus, and ballet flats. Each complemented by the brand’s signature experimental fabrics like tulle, sheer layers, and knit. Long flowing dresses punctuated by daringly high cut slits which revealed the wearer’s underwear provided a daring contrast to the romantically feminine elements of this collection. In true Simone Rocha fashion, playfulness within fashion is key, there is no right or wrong. Fun and bedazzled crocs, as well as sequin floral embellishments was her cherry on top to this show stopping collection.
