Pharrell Williams – how has he shaped Louis Vuitton since Virgil Abloh’s death?
Written by Makayla Welch
Mumbles of confusion and dissatisfaction. That’s what rippled through the fashion industry when Pharrell Williams was appointed creative director of menswear at Louis Vuitton. In the wake of Virgil Abloh’s death, Louis Vuitton was not in a rush to fill his shoes. Abloh’s legacy would be hard to follow considering the monumental change and impact he had on the fashion industry. It took Louis Vuitton a whole year to finally choose Pharrell. He didn’t even know he was being considered. While he took part in conversations surrounding Abloh’s successor, offering names of people he thought could fill the role, he answered a call one day and was blindsided when they offered him the prestigious role (Johnson, 2023).
Many critics disagreed with the choice, prompting dialogue around whether emerging talent such as Martine Rose or others should have been appointed instead. The critics argued it sends the message that status is preferred rather than qualifications. In the broader context, people may have been feeling a sense of celebrity fatigue in the industry, tired of celebs being handed roles on a platter without the roots of hard-earned merit that others have had to put in (Maguire and Benissan, 2023).
Pharrell’s selection, however, was a carefully calculated move. Despite what some people may think, he is no stranger to the fashion industry. During the 2000s, while orchestrating chart-topping hits, he became a hip-hop fashion icon – mainly known for mixing streetwear aesthetics with luxury items.
In 2003, Pharrell Williams and Nigo (the current creative director of Kenzo) founded the extremely successful streetwear brand, Billionaire Boys Club, which led to him landing his first collaboration with Louis Vuitton. This venture served as a gateway to more partnerships birthing sunglasses, outerwear and the “Blason” jewellery collection with Louis Vuitton. This led him to nurture a close relationship with ex-creative director Marc Jacobs, for whom he regularly modelled. It is also not a stretch to say that Pharrell currently ranks among the best-dressed male celebrities we have now (Ostanina, 2023).
Thus, we could conclude that despite not having any formal fashion qualifications he was a perfect candidate for the role.
Rebecca Smeyne/New York Times
In a statement, Louis Vuitton’s CEO Pietro Beccari expressed that he “needed someone who was, again, connected to the arts, who could touch the hearts of people through music and fashion but also collaborations.” Beccari sought a successor who could seamlessly perpetuate Abloh’s new creative direction for the luxury fashion brand and introduce a new culture which focuses on the closer integration of fashion and music (Johnson, 2023).
Earlier this year, Pharrell showcased his debut collection and dreams for the future of Louis Vuitton. At the Pont Neuf in Paris, he wrapped the runway in gold and began to tell the world what his creative vision entails. Pharrell unveiled a collection with distinctive features such as box-pleat shorts paired with suits, pearl-adorned sunglasses, innovative remixes, a transformed Speedy bag and band collard tunics. Additionally, the collection draws from Virginia, with the term “LVers” adorning jackets paying homage to where he grew up (Goosby, 2023).
The highlight of the collection was the Damouflage print, a digital camo reinterpretation of LV’s famous chessboard Damier, showcased on flared jeans, outerwear, bags, and boots, adding a dynamic touch to Pharrell Williams’ transformative vision. Pharrell also devoted the event to Virgil Abloh, saying “This moment is dedicated to the giant before me. To our brother in spirit.” Reminding us that he’s stepping into this role to continue Abloh’s legacy and everything he started rather than making elaborate changes (Johnson, 2023).
Giovanni Giannoni// Harper’s Bazaar
Even before the fashion community witnessed Pharrell Williams’ debut collection, he was already working his creative magic. A few days prior to the show, he rolled out a striking campaign starring Rihanna wearing an unbuttoned leather jacket from the collection with her pregnant belly exposed, on her arms were multiple colourful Speedy Bags. Her name trended for days; showcasing a true pop culture moment in fashion that we haven’t seen for a while (Gonzalez, 2023).
Alongside Rihanna, other celebrities avidly watched the show, including her partner A$AP Rocky, dressed in a full look from the collection. The star-studded audience also featured Naomi Campbell, Beyoncé, Jay-Z, Kim Kardashian, Zendaya, Megan Thee Stallion, Lenny Kravitz and Lewis Hamilton. It’s evident that Williams has a league of influential supporters that will help Louis Vuitton menswear become a symbol of fashion embraced by everyone (Johnson, 2023).
Louis Vuitton//Vanity Fair
Now it’s apparent that his debut show was merely the opening act for what Pharrell Williams has in store for Louis Vuitton. At the start of December 2023, the luxury brand embarked on a journey to Hong Kong to present their Pre-Fall S/S 24 collection – a historic first for the brand. The runway was placed in Victoria Harbour covered in sand where Ukulele music flowed through the air, crafting the perfect ambience for Pharrell’s second show.
Models walked down the runway wearing double-breasted and striped suits, sailing jackets, wetsuits, flared trousers and several items with pearl embellishments. Accessories included sunglasses, berets, surfboards, fisherman-style sandals, raffia bucket hats, and a bag with a new Surfing Monogram inspired by Hawaiian floral prints (Guilbault, 2023).
Through the show, we can understand that Pharrell’s vision is centred around travel, with the designer himself stating that “the fashion has been inspired by what that traveller is going to need, and what they’ll want to wear, and where they’re headed, and what those environments are going to be like. That’s what’s become the inspiration for me. We’re a travelling company.” (Hine, 2023)
A note-worthy observation is that Pharrell chose to have both men and women modelling the collection stating, “I know we’re a men’s line, but we make clothes for humans, in my opinion, first and foremost.” This inclusive approach emphasises Pharrell’s desire to create collections that cater to individuals, irrespective of gender distinctions.
Giovanni Giannoni//Getty Images
From both shows, we can catch a glimpse of Pharrell Williams’ transformative vision for Louis Vuitton: a profound cultural shift where they’re not just selling a product but a new lifestyle. Pharrell has stated many times that he creates with himself in mind, centering himself as his ideal customer. This deep understanding of his consumer’s wants and needs means that Williams can identify what’s trendy, cool and stylish, seamlessly aligning with the tastes his consumers crave.
Pharrell’s streetwear and music background also means he can embed his personal style into every collection he makes. Thus, he appeals to the eye of the masses the luxury brand may not have been able to reach before. Indeed, his effect on the brand has already started to sink in with Beccari saying, “There are a lot of people entering the stores and asking for Pharrell’s products; there is a lot of anticipation, not only in the US.” (Guilbault, 2023)
At this moment, we find ourselves with front-row seats to an iconic chapter in fashion history. Infused with charisma and the drive to dream of the impossible, Pharrell Williams is shifting the narrative and producing a new fusion of luxury fashion and music that hasn’t yet been explored. Building off the foundations set by the remarkable Virgil Abloh, the possibilities are endless as Pharrell seems to have an infinite void of creative inspiration and ideas to work with. Armed with the keys to Louis Vuitton and an endless cache of resources, Pharrell Williams is undoubtedly set to usher in a new golden age for the esteemed luxury fashion brand.
Reference List
https://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/article/pharrell-louis-vuitton-interview-2023
https://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/article/pharrell-louis-vuitton-debut-collection-interview
https://www.voguebusiness.com/fashion/pharrell-at-vuitton-has-fashion-gone-full-hype
https://www.voguebusiness.com/story/fashion/inside-louis-vuittons-hong-kong-spectacle
https://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/article/pharrell-louis-vuitton-pre-fall-2024-collection-review
https://www.nytimes.com/2023/02/14/style/pharrell-williams-louis-vuitton-mens-creative-director.html
